Baker's Fundamentals
Baker's Percentage (Baker's Math)
A professional baking system where all ingredients are expressed as percentages relative to the total flour weight, which is always 100%. This allows bakers to easily scale recipes up or down while maintaining proper ingredient ratios. For example, in a 65% hydration dough, water equals 65% of the flour weight.
Example: If you use 1000g flour at 65% hydration, you need 650g water (1000 × 0.65 = 650).
Hydration
The ratio of water to flour in a dough, expressed as a baker's percentage. Higher hydration (70%+) creates airier, more open crumb structures with larger holes, while lower hydration (60-65%) produces denser, chewier textures. Hydration significantly affects dough handling, fermentation speed, and final texture. See our
Ultimate Guide to Pizza Dough Hydration for ranges by style, flour adjustments, and high-hydration handling techniques.
Example: Neapolitan pizza typically uses 60-65% hydration for easy handling, while Canotto style uses 70-75% for massive air bubbles.
DDT (Desired Dough Temperature)
The target temperature of finished dough after mixing, typically 75-78°F (24-26°C) for pizza dough. DDT affects fermentation speed and yeast activity. Bakers calculate water temperature needed to achieve DDT by factoring in room temperature, flour temperature, and friction from mixing.
Example: In a warm kitchen (80°F), you'd use cooler water (60-65°F) to keep dough from over-fermenting.
Bulk Fermentation
The first fermentation period after mixing and before dividing/shaping, where the entire dough mass ferments together. During bulk fermentation, yeast produces CO2 and flavor compounds, gluten continues developing, and dough gains strength and extensibility. Typically occurs at room temperature or in refrigeration.
Example: A 6-hour room temperature bulk fermentation followed by 24 hours cold fermentation.
Cold Fermentation
Extended fermentation in refrigeration (35-40°F / 2-4°C) that dramatically slows yeast activity while allowing flavor development and gluten relaxation. Cold fermentation produces more complex flavors, improved digestibility, and better dough extensibility. Typical cold fermentation lasts 24-72 hours. See my
complete cold fermentation guide and
day-by-day timing breakdown.
Example: Refrigerating dough balls for 48 hours develops rich, complex flavors and makes dough easier to stretch.
Equivalent Hours
A fermentation calculation method that converts different temperature/time combinations into a standardized measurement. Since cold fermentation is slower than room temperature, equivalent hours help determine proper yeast amounts. Typically, 1 hour at 40°F equals about 0.05 hours at 70°F in fermentation activity.
Example: 6 hours at room temp + 24 hours cold ≈ 8.2 equivalent hours of fermentation activity.
Flour & Ingredients
Protein Content
The percentage of protein in flour, primarily glutenin and gliadin, which form gluten when hydrated and mixed. Higher protein (13-14%) creates stronger, chewier doughs ideal for high-hydration styles. Lower protein (10-12%) produces tender, delicate crusts. Protein content determines maximum hydration capacity and dough strength. See my
guide to pizza flour for a full breakdown.
Example: Bread flour (12-13% protein) vs. All-Purpose flour (10-11% protein) vs. High-Gluten flour (14%+ protein).
00 Flour (Doppio Zero)
Italian flour classification based on milling fineness, not protein content. "00" refers to the finest grind with bran and germ removed. Traditional for Neapolitan pizza. 00 flours range from soft (11-12% protein) to strong (13%+ protein, W280-W380). The fine texture creates smooth, extensible doughs that are easy to stretch thin. My
flour guide covers how to choose the right 00 for your style.
Example: Caputo "00" Pizzeria (12.5% protein, W260-W280) is the gold standard for authentic Neapolitan pizza.
W Value (Flour Strength)
An Italian measurement of flour strength based on the Chopin Alveograph test, indicating gluten quality and dough extensibility. Higher W values (W280-W380) indicate stronger flour suitable for long fermentation and high hydration. W180-W220 is weak, W260-W280 is medium, W300+ is strong. Not commonly listed on US flour bags. See my
flour guide for more on how W value affects fermentation.
Example: W280 flour handles 24-48 hour fermentation, while W220 flour is better for same-day dough.
Gluten
The elastic protein network formed when wheat flour proteins (glutenin and gliadin) are hydrated and agitated. Gluten provides structure, elasticity, and allows dough to trap CO2 produced during fermentation, creating an airy crumb. Gluten development occurs through mixing, kneading, and time (autolyse). Over-developed gluten becomes tough, under-developed gluten tears easily. See
why pizza dough gets sticky and how to fix it.
Example: Proper gluten development allows dough to stretch thin without tearing (the "windowpane test").
Salt
Essential for flavor and gluten strengthening, typically 2-3% of flour weight in pizza dough. Salt tightens gluten structure, controls yeast activity, and enhances flavor. Added after autolyse to avoid inhibiting gluten formation. Too much salt (3.5%+) slows fermentation excessively; too little (<2%) creates weak, bland dough.
Example: 1000g flour × 2.5% = 25g salt (about 4 teaspoons).
Fats (Oil)
Olive oil or vegetable oil added to enrich dough, improve browning, and create tender crumb. Common in American styles (New York, Detroit) at 1-3% but absent in traditional Neapolitan. Fat coats gluten strands, creating a softer, more tender texture and improving dough extensibility. Also extends shelf life by slowing staling.
Example: New York style uses 2% oil for its characteristic foldable, crispy-yet-tender texture.
Sugar
Optional sweetener (0.5-2% of flour weight) that enhances browning, feeds yeast, and balances acidity. Provides quick energy for yeast during early fermentation. More common in American styles, less common in Italian styles. Sugar promotes Maillard reaction and caramelization for golden-brown crust color.
Example: Detroit style uses 1% sugar to achieve its characteristic caramelized cheese edges.
Yeast & Fermentation
IDY (Instant Dry Yeast)
Instant dry yeast with small granules that can be mixed directly into flour without proofing. Most convenient and consistent form of commercial yeast. Remains dormant until hydrated, has long shelf life, and provides reliable fermentation. The baseline yeast type for pizza dough calculations (1.0x conversion factor). See our
complete yeast guide for a detailed comparison of types, amounts, and brands.
Example: Popular brands include SAF Red, Fleischmann's RapidRise, and Red Star Instant.
ADY (Active Dry Yeast)
Traditional granulated yeast that requires proofing in warm water before use. Larger granules than instant yeast with dormant cell coating that must be dissolved. Slightly less potent than instant yeast (requires 25% more by weight). Once proofed, performs similarly to instant yeast but with extra hydration step. See our
yeast comparison guide for full conversion ratios and brand recommendations.
Example: If a recipe calls for 2g instant yeast, use 2.5g active dry yeast instead (2 × 1.25 = 2.5).
Fresh Yeast (Cake Yeast)
Compressed moist yeast sold in blocks, preferred by professional bakers for its robust fermentation and flavor. Contains about 70% moisture, requires refrigeration, and has short shelf life (2 weeks). More perishable than dry yeast but provides vigorous fermentation. Use 2.35x more fresh yeast by weight than instant dry yeast. See our
yeast guide for storage tips and how fresh yeast compares in practice.
Example: If a recipe calls for 2g instant yeast, use 4.7g fresh yeast (2 × 2.35 = 4.7).
Sourdough Starter (Levain)
A culture of wild yeast and lactic acid bacteria maintained through regular flour and water feedings. Creates naturally leavened bread with complex flavors, improved digestibility, and longer shelf life. Starters have varying hydration levels: stiff (50-60%) or liquid (100%+). Requires 8-24 hours to ferment dough depending on temperature and starter strength. Try our
Sourdough Neapolitan dough recipe.
Example: A 100% hydration starter means equal parts flour and water by weight (100g flour + 100g water).
Pre-ferment
A portion of flour, water, and leavening mixed and fermented separately before being incorporated into the final dough. Pre-ferments develop flavor complexity, strengthen gluten, improve crumb structure, and reduce the amount of yeast needed in the final mix. The three common types are
biga (stiff, 50% hydration),
poolish (liquid, 100% hydration), and levain (sourdough-based, hydration matches the
starter). Pre-ferments typically use 20-50% of the total flour and ferment 8-24 hours before mixing.
Example: Using a 30% pre-ferment means 30% of the recipe's flour is fermented ahead of time, giving the final dough a head start on flavor and structure.
Biga
Italian stiff pre-ferment made with flour, water (50-60% hydration), and tiny amount of yeast (0.1-0.3%). Ferments 12-24 hours at cool room temperature. Creates mild flavor, improves dough strength and extensibility, and enhances browning. Typically comprises 20-30% of total flour weight in final dough. Drier consistency than poolish. Try my
Biga dough recipe or read my
complete biga guide.
Example: Make biga the night before: 300g flour + 165g water + 0.3g yeast. Let ferment 16 hours at 65-70°F.
Poolish
French liquid pre-ferment made with equal parts flour and water by weight (100% hydration) plus small amount of yeast (0.1-0.5%). Ferments 6-16 hours depending on temperature and yeast amount. Creates open crumb structure, mild tang, and enhanced flavor complexity. More liquid than biga, easier to incorporate into dough. Try my
Poolish dough recipe.
Example: Make poolish: 250g flour + 250g water + 0.5g yeast. Ferment 8-12 hours until bubbly and domed.
Autolyse
A resting period (20-60 minutes) after mixing only flour and water, before adding salt and yeast. During autolyse, flour fully hydrates, gluten begins forming naturally, and enzymes break down starches. Results in better gluten development with less kneading, improved extensibility, and enhanced flavor. Particularly beneficial for whole wheat and high-hydration doughs.
Example: Mix flour and water, rest 30 minutes covered, then add salt and yeast and knead briefly.
Proofing (Final Fermentation)
The final rise after shaping dough balls and before baking. During proofing, yeast produces CO2, dough relaxes, and temperature equilibrates for easier stretching. Typically 2-4 hours at room temperature or up to 72 hours refrigerated. Properly proofed dough stretches easily without springing back; under-proofed dough is tight and resistant. My
cold fermentation guide covers proofing timing in detail.
Example: Remove cold dough balls from fridge 2-3 hours before baking to warm up and complete proofing.
Over-Fermentation
When dough ferments too long or too warm, exhausting yeast's food supply and weakening gluten structure. Signs include excessive sourness, sticky texture, collapsed structure, and difficulty handling. Over-fermented dough may smell strongly alcoholic or vinegary. Caused by too much yeast, too-warm temperatures, or excessive time. Learn
how to tell when dough has gone bad.
Example: Dough left at room temperature for 24 hours (instead of refrigerated) will likely over-ferment.
Techniques
Kneading
The process of working dough through folding, pressing, and stretching to develop gluten structure. Kneading aligns gluten proteins into organized networks that trap gas and provide structure. Can be done by hand (8-10 minutes) or stand mixer (4-6 minutes). Properly kneaded dough is smooth, elastic, and passes the windowpane test. See my
stand mixer guide for tips on machine vs. hand kneading.
Example: Stretch a small piece of dough thin - if it forms a translucent membrane without tearing, gluten is developed.
Stretch and Fold
A gentle alternative to kneading for high-hydration doughs, performed during bulk fermentation. Dough is stretched from one side and folded over itself, rotated 90°, and repeated 4-8 times. Performed 2-4 times during first 2 hours of fermentation. Develops gluten structure while maintaining dough hydration and gas retention.
Example: Perform stretch-and-fold every 30 minutes for the first 2 hours of bulk fermentation.
Balling (Shaping)
Dividing bulk dough into individual portions and shaping into tight, smooth balls with surface tension. Proper balling creates even crumb structure and makes stretching easier. Dough is folded onto itself repeatedly while rotating to create smooth outer skin and seal underneath. Balled dough rests (proofs) before stretching.
Example: For Neapolitan pizza, divide into 250-280g balls for 10-12 inch pizzas.
Bench Rest
A short resting period (10-30 minutes) after dividing dough and before final shaping. Allows gluten to relax from cutting/handling stress, making dough easier to shape. Covered dough rests on work surface at room temperature. Particularly important after cold fermentation to allow dough to warm slightly.
Example: After dividing cold dough, let rest 15-20 minutes before balling to prevent tearing.
Slap and Fold (French Kneading)
A vigorous kneading technique for wet, sticky doughs. Dough is picked up, slapped onto work surface, folded over itself, and repeated rapidly. Builds gluten structure quickly without adding flour. Particularly effective for 70%+ hydration doughs that are too sticky for traditional kneading.
Example: For 75% hydration Canotto dough, use slap-and-fold for 3-5 minutes until dough gains structure.
Windowpane Test
A method to check gluten development by stretching a small piece of dough thin. Properly developed dough stretches into a translucent membrane without tearing. If dough tears immediately, it needs more kneading/time. Used to determine when kneading is complete or when autolyse has sufficiently developed gluten.
Example: Take golf-ball sized dough, stretch gently - if light shines through without tearing, gluten is ready.
Poke Test
A method to check dough proofing readiness by gently pressing a fingertip into dough ball. If indentation slowly springs back halfway, dough is properly proofed. If it springs back quickly, it needs more time. If it doesn't spring back at all, it's over-proofed. Simple, reliable way to assess fermentation progress.
Example: Press dough gently - if it springs back slowly to halfway, it's ready to stretch and bake.
Hand Stretching
Traditional technique for shaping pizza dough by hand without a rolling pin. Dough is pressed, lifted, and stretched by rotating on knuckles, allowing gravity to stretch it evenly. Preserves gas bubbles in rim for puffy cornicione. Requires well-proofed, room-temperature dough. Takes practice but produces superior texture to rolled dough.
Example: Start by pressing dough flat, leaving ½-inch rim, then lift and rotate on knuckles to stretch.
Degassing
The process of pressing out large gas bubbles from dough during shaping or stretching. Some styles require gentle handling to preserve bubbles (Neapolitan), while others benefit from degassing for even texture (New York). Completely degassing dough before balling creates uniform crumb; preserving gas creates irregular, artisan holes.
Example: For bar pizza, press dough firmly to remove all bubbles and create even, crispy texture.
Pizza Styles
Neapolitan Pizza
Traditional Italian pizza from Naples with VPN certification standards: 60-65% hydration, 00 flour, no fats, 3% salt, 280g dough balls, hand-stretched 10-12 inches, baked 60-90 seconds at 800-900°F in wood-fired oven. Characterized by soft, tender interior, charred spots (leoparding), and puffy raised rim (cornicione). Simple toppings: San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, olive oil. Try our
Neapolitan dough recipe.
Example: Classic Margherita pizza with soft center and dramatically puffy edges.
Canotto Pizza
Contemporary Italian style pioneered by Francesco & Salvatore Salvo in Naples. Features extreme cornicione (rim) that resembles an inflated rubber dinghy ("canotto"). Requires 70-75% hydration, strong 00 flour (W300+), cold fermentation, and careful handling to preserve gas. Baked at slightly lower temperature (750-800°F) than traditional Neapolitan to develop massive rim without burning. Try our
Canotto dough recipe.
Example: Instagram-famous pizza style with dramatically oversized, air-filled rim and thin center.
New York Style Pizza
American pizza style with 60-65% hydration, bread flour, 2% oil, 1% sugar, hand-tossed, baked on deck oven at 550-600°F for 8-12 minutes. Characterized by large foldable slices, crispy-yet-chewy texture, slight grease from oil/cheese, and ability to fold lengthwise. Typically sold by the slice. Uses low-moisture mozzarella and slightly sweet tomato sauce. Try our
New York style dough recipe.
Example: Classic NYC slice that folds in half with crispy undercarriage and slight flop at the tip.
Detroit Style Pizza
Rectangular pizza baked in blue steel automotive pans with 70-75% hydration, bread flour, oil, 450-500g dough per 10×14-inch pan. Characterized by thick, airy crumb, crispy caramelized cheese edges (frico), and toppings under cheese with sauce ladled on top in stripes after baking. Originally from Buddy's Rendezvous (1946). Requires high hydration and cold fermentation for open crumb. Try our
Detroit style dough recipe.
Example: Rectangular pizza with lacy, crispy cheese crust and red sauce stripes on top.
Sicilian Pizza
Thick, square pizza similar to focaccia with 75%+ hydration, high-gluten flour, olive oil, baked in sheet pan. Soft, airy, fluffy interior with crispy bottom from oil. Often par-baked, topped, then finished. American version differs from Sicilian sfincione (topped with breadcrumbs, anchovies, onions). Requires strong flour to support high hydration and thickness. Try our
Sicilian dough recipe.
Example: Thick, spongy pizza squares with substantial chew and olive oil crispiness.
Bar Pizza (Tavern Style)
Thin, crispy New England style baked in 10-inch cast iron or cake pans at 450-500°F. Uses 58-60% hydration, all-purpose or bread flour, minimal yeast, pressed thin into oiled pans. Characterized by crispy, almost cracker-like texture, edge-to-edge toppings, cut into strips or squares. Popular in Massachusetts/Rhode Island bars. Dough pressed or rolled, not stretched. Try our
Bar/Tavern pizza dough recipe.
Example: Ultra-thin, crispy pizza cut into strips with lacy browned cheese extending to edges.
Roman Pizza (Pizza alla Pala)
Oblong pizza baked on paddle with 70-80% hydration, long cold fermentation (48-72 hours), extremely crispy base with airy interior. "Alla pala" means "by the paddle." Uses strong flour, olive oil, stretch-and-fold technique. Baked at moderate heat (450-500°F) for 12-15 minutes. Characterized by irregular holes, crispy texture, and rectangular shape cut into squares or strips.
Example: Long rectangular pizza with blistered, crispy crust and open, irregular crumb structure.
Cornicione
Italian term for the raised rim or "crown" of pizza crust that remains unsauced and puffs up during baking. Particularly prominent in Neapolitan and Canotto styles. Created by leaving 1-2 cm border when saucing and by gas bubbles expanding during baking. A hallmark of well-fermented, properly handled dough. Desired texture ranges from soft and airy to crispy, depending on style.
Example: The dramatically puffy, air-filled outer edge of a properly made Neapolitan pizza.
Leoparding
The characteristic dark brown/black spots on Neapolitan pizza crust from intense heat and rapid baking. Results from moisture rapidly evaporating and Maillard reaction on dough surface in 800-900°F+ ovens. Indicates proper high-heat cooking and adds complex, slightly bitter, charred flavor. Prized aesthetic marker of authentic wood-fired Neapolitan pizza.
Example: The black-spotted, charred appearance on the rim and bottom of wood-fired Neapolitan pizza.
Pizzaiolo
Italian term for a pizza maker or pizza chef. Plural: pizzaioli. Feminine: pizzaiola. Originally referred to trained artisans in Neapolitan pizzerias who mastered dough handling, oven management, and the rapid baking techniques required for authentic wood-fired pizza. The craft of the Neapolitan pizzaiolo was recognized by UNESCO in 2017 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Now used broadly for anyone who makes pizza seriously, whether professional or home baker.
Example: A skilled pizzaiolo can stretch, top, and launch a pizza in under 30 seconds.